What type of pipe should i get

Virginia blended tobaccos are notorious for giving smokers tongue bite. The chemical make-up and the hot burning temperature require a patient smoker. When smoking a bent pipe, the stem is generally built longer so that the bowl is still the same distance from the mouth. The longer stem allows the smoke more time to cool off and to disperse its energy through the stem before hitting the tongue. The casing on some aromatics is what gives the pipe smoker the occasional spittle attack.

The bent nature of the pipe sets physics out against runback. Most of the time, the spittle will be unable to travel upwards toward the bit. When you find that your favorite Aromatic smokes super wet, try smoking it in a bent pipe. Part of what makes pipe smoking so special is the ritual of gathering your tools and sitting down for a smoke.

Since the path to proper smoking is full of trepidation and a bit mystical, frustration can arise. With a pipe mentor or this handy guide and the proper tools, you can easily get a jump on the process and immediately begin enjoying a relaxing new hobby.

Packing--or how the tobacco goes into the chamber--can be done in many different ways. The method we recommend trying first is by far the most popular, and in our opinion, the most flavorful way. Ribbon or loose cut tobacco does not require any preparation. But if you are smoking a flake, coin, cake, plug, or twist, then the tobacco will need to be manipulated. The sure-fire way pun intended to prepare these blends is to take an amount and place it between your palms.

Slowly rub your palms together. After a few seconds, the tobacco will fall apart and is ready for loading in the chamber. If you find that the pieces are too large, simply repeat the process. If the tobacco is too small, then reduce the pressure and intensity with which you rub the tobacco out. The Three Pack Method is our favorite and the most popular way to pack a bowl.

As the name hints, there are three steps to loading up the perfect bowl of tobacco:. This process works because it causes the tobacco to be evenly packed from the top to the bottom of the chamber.

If the tobacco is uneven, then it will not remain lit throughout the bowl. A bowl packed too tightly will also reduce the flavor of the tobacco. The unsmoked portion acts as a filter in the sense that it dilutes the flavor.

The key to making sure this process works is to periodically draw to puff on the stem of the pipe and make sure that it does not become more difficult to draw at any point. It is important to note that you are not inhaling the smoke. A tobacco pipe is not a cigarette, and you should not smoke a pipe the same way you do with a cigarette. You want to allow the smoke to rest in your mouth, swirling around so you can appreciate the flavor of the tobacco.

If there seems to be a block or the draw is significantly thicker than it is with an empty pipe, then it would be best to empty the bowl and begin again. When the chamber is filled and ready to be lit, it should feel as if there is no air-flow resistance. It takes some smokers years of daily smoking to perfect this packing method. But once they have it down, it is obvious that all the work was well worth it.

Now we come to the last step before you can finally begin enjoying pipe smoking: lighting the tobacco. But with a little thought and intention, you will have absolutely no problem. Many smokers believe that choosing the proper flame source is nearly as important as packing the pipe. Whether or not you have an opinion on the issue, it is helpful to be familiar with the most common style of lighters people use. Matches: Matches are the most common choice.

To use a match, simply strike it and hold it until the sulfur is burned usually about one count. Then, bring the match to the surface of the tobacco and gently puff through the mouthpiece while moving the fire around the filled bowl in a slow circle.

These lighters hold up well and are the most reliable, in pretty much any weather. But, be careful! These lighters may char the rim of your pipe bowl, and if you use them too liberally, they will give your tobacco an unpleasant taste. Butane Lighters: Butane lighters are an attractive and convenient way to keep your fire with you wherever you go.

Using a butane lighter, specifically designed for pipes, will help you avoid burning your fingers and keep the flame right where you want it. Just as packing well is crucial for a good smoke, so is the actual lighting process. There are three simple and easy to understand steps to light your tobacco:.

The Charring Light: The first light, called the Charring Light, is done with a gentle circle of fire at the top of the tobacco applied in a lazy circle while puffing gently at the mouthpiece.

This light will char the top of the tobacco, hence its name. The Preliminary Tamp: After the tobacco has been subject to fire for the first time, it will expand and slightly rise from the top of the chamber. To keep the tobacco tighter together, lightly push down with a tamper we should note that you will need to repeat this periodically through smoking the bowl, on an average of times.

The Second Light: Now it is time to wait. We suggest giving the tobacco a second break before implementing this third and final step. Light the pipe tobacco again, in the same lazy circle as before. We made it to the point where you can sit back, relax, and smoke decadent tobacco leaves in your new pipe.

At this point, you could stop reading and just enjoy your smoke. If you want the best experience possible and set up for success, our tips and guidelines for pipe smoking will greatly benefit you. The rhythm of your smoking is paramount to your experience. It takes practice and patience to get the pace just right.

No two smokers do it exactly the same way. In general, your goal is to take a puff often enough to keep your tobacco lit but slowly enough to keep the smoke fairly cool. Smoking hot will cause the dreaded tongue bite and could damage the bowl of the pipe. Hold your pipe by the bowl. If your fingers are too hot, slow down. Learning how to light and pace your puffs properly takes practice and experimentation. Sometimes your tobacco will go out.

This could be due to a bad pack, inconsistent pace, tobacco that was too moist or too dry, or a plethora of other reasons. It happens to new smokers, and it happens to smokers who have been practicing the hobby for decades. So how exactly should you go about relighting it? The first thing you should do is softly tamp down the remaining ash.

Then, turn the bowl upside down and gently let the ash, also known as dottle, fall out. At this point, we suggest letting the pipe rest for about a minute. This allows the pipe to cool and to have a more consistent temperature in the tobacco. Once the tobacco has set, simply light it with a match or lighter.

You will notice that it no longer tastes good--rather, it tastes like an ashtray. That is simply because the ash at the top chamber is transferring the embers down to the tobacco below.

If you want to avoid a few puffs of this sour taste, very gently exhale through the pipe. The added oxygen will speed up the burning process, and the smoke will go away from your mouth while the ash is burning, not towards it.

At this point, you should be able to resume smoking your pipe as usual. If the tobacco goes out again, simply rinse, lather, and repeat. If the tobacco is going out over and over again, it may be a good idea to experiment with your pack, light, and type of tobacco you use.

It is the thick black stuff you see on the inside of tobacco pipes. To break in a pipe means to slowly introduce tobacco to the pipe so that a healthy and beneficial cake can build up. Developing a proper cake is a critical step in ensuring your pipe lasts for years to come. This can be one of the most frustrating parts of learning to smoke a pipe--knowing when you have just the right thickness.

The cake creates a barrier around the entire bowl chamber. Cake refers to the carbon deposits that are left behind by the smoked tobacco. These carbon deposits insulate the chamber and keep the briar from charring. In addition to protecting the chamber, cake helps make your smoking experience sweeter. The carbon builds up forms from the sugars in the tobacco. These deposits blend with some of the flavor of the briar, resulting in a mellow smoke.

To develop the initial cake, you will use a gradual buildup process that is a little different than a regular smoking experience. Learning how to do this properly takes time and patience. Follow these steps carefully for the best results:. Fill the bowl a quarter full with tobacco. We start with a partial bowl to give the carbon room to form evenly.

This process ensures that every bit of the chamber will be exposed to charred tobacco. Light the partial bowl evenly. Take your first draw, then tamp with your tamper and do your second light. Smoke the bowl slowly and completely. Take your time, even more so than usual, with this smoke. Draw slowly and methodically, which will help you form an even cake.

Make sure to smoke the whole bowl, all the way to the heel, which is the bottom of the bowl. Developing cake at the bottom of the bowl is the most difficult part of the process. Next, follow steps with a half-bowl, then three quarters. By increasing the amount of tobacco in the bowl gradually, over time, you will build a more even cake, from bottom to top, inside the chamber.

Most pipes need at least a dozen smokes to begin forming a nice cake. The last and possibly most crucial step in developing a pipe cake is to be careful when emptying your pipe. After a few minutes, gently dump the bowl, and if possible, tap the pipe on a cork knocker to dump out the rest. DO NOT scrape out the tobacco with a pipe tool.

This will reverse much of the caking process that took place during the last smoke. If you have to loosen the ash with a pipe tool, that is fine. Just refrain from scraping the inner walls of the chamber.

Now that all the jargon is out of the way, you can enjoy smoking your tobacco pipe time and time again. At this point, the mere act of smoking ends, and the fantastic hobby of pipe collecting and pipe smoking begins. Most new pipe smokers are looking for more than just a new way to smoke tobacco. Most people enter the community of pipe smoking because they feel it is a compelling lifestyle.

To get the most out of every pipe you own, taking preventative measures will keep them healthy, beautiful, and smoking great!

We can do this with the proper pipe accessories and tools for consistent and needed maintenance. We just talked about building up the carbon, or cake, of your tobacco pipe.

But like everything, you can have too much of a good thing. Building up too much cake in your pipe is a bad thing. When cake heats, it expands. Once there is too much cake, it will expand a bit too much and could crack your pipes. We believe the optimal cake thickness is 1. Once the cake exceeds 2mm, it is time to ream--remove some cake. Before we go into what types of pipe reamers you should consider, a word of warning: DO NOT use a knife.

We know it is tempting. So tempting, in fact, that a few of us may have learned this lesson the hard way by ruining a perfectly good pipe. We know you probably have some sharp pocket knives lying around.

But we want you to say no! Using a knife will strip the carbon from your pipe rather than sand it off. Besides, you are likely to stab or scratch your briar bowl, which is bad news. Pipe Tool Attachment: Most smokers have an abundance of 3-in-1 style pipe tools nestled around their home, office, and car.

These tools come with a tamper, pick, and a reamer. While the scoop tool is called a reamer, its purpose is to loosen and shovel out the ash. The reamer attachment was not designed to scrape the carbon from the inside of the bowl. Attempting to ream with this tool can result in taking out chunks and damaging the briar underneath the cake. Sandpaper: Some people love the direct, hands-on approach. They like to take a thin piece of sandpaper, apply it to a finger, and slowly sand down the cake.

This tool can be precise, but only in the hands of experienced woodworkers and crafters who know how to properly sand. Dremel Tool: Another tool favored by woodworkers is the Dremel tool method. A rock sander attached to the end of the tool can be a quick and easy method, but only in the right hands.

This is a dangerous way to ream. It takes a steady hand and perfect attention to detail to do it correctly. We advise you not to try this method unless you are a very experienced restoration expert. British Buttner: The British Buttner is a classic tool and the most economical at that.

This reamer is spring-loaded, causing it to always fit snugly in the bowl. These are typically three-quarters of an inch thick, which fits most standard pipes. This tool is perfect for pipes with a U-shaped chamber. What makes this tool so popular is its ability to reach the bottom of most chambers quite easily, a characteristic which most other tools have trouble with. Multi-Tool T-Reamer: A Multi-Tool reamer is the preferred tool of restoration artists and those who have multiple sized pipes to care for.

The downside to this is the lack of adjustability. If you happen not to have a reamer that fits your pipe, you are out of luck. With tapered sharpened edges, and a V-shaped bottom which obviously works well with V-shaped chambers , this reamer is perfect for most every pipe. This reamer is beloved because with a little torque, the diameter of the reamer changes. As you ream, you can slowly enlarge the reamer to match the cake, making it the safest reamer to use on your pipes.

Once you select your tool of choice, it is a bad idea to jump in and start reaming your favorite pipes right away. We suggest you go to eBay or a local antique market and buy a few beat-up estate pipes with loads of cake. Use these to practice. Please practice first. First and foremost, have a stable and secure workplace. You will want to have a steady hand when reaming. The couch, in your lap, car, or some other unstable place can keep your hand from being steady.

The key to reaming is gentle and consistent torque. When you insert your tool, you only want a small amount of friction between the cake and your tool. At this point, you will twist until the friction disappears. Dump the dust out, expand your reamer, and continue the process. You should be creating a fine dust of carbon. It is tempting to ream inconsistently around the bowl, such as pushing harder on the shank side of the pipe.

Avoid this—Ream equally all around the diameter of your bowl. Do not ream all the way to fresh wood! This is a mistake many, including us, have made. It is best to leave a light layer. When you make your way to the heel of the bowl, be careful!

There is often only a little, if any, cake at the bottom of the bowl. Once you have completed reaming, you will want to clean the pipe carefully. Dump the carbon dust out and begin running pipe cleaners through your pipe. For those of you that use alcohol to clean your pipes, Everclear is a great place to start. If using alcohol is not your thing, then using a pipe cleaning solution will work well as an alternative.

The first is a quick clean after each bowl, and the second is a more thorough method used periodically as maintenance, and the last a special treatment for severely dirty pipes. You can, and many do, skip this step and have a perfectly fantastic smoking life.

But if you follow this simple step, we believe that your next bowl in the same pipe will be significantly more flavorful than if you skip it. This method removes unnecessary sludge from the stem, shank, and heel of the pipe, which clears up the flavor of the tobacco the next time you smoke the pipe.

Note: It is a bad idea to remove the stem from the shank of the pipe right after smoking. If you plan on running a pipe cleaner through the two pieces separately, it is crucial that you let the pipe cool down completely before removing the stem. Taking the two apart while the pipe is hot will cause the stem to expand and contract at a different rate, resulting in a loose joint.

You should give each pipe you smoke regularly a good cleaning treatment every month in an ideal situation.

The process we will outline below promotes the long-term health of each pipe and reduces small amounts of grime that build up in the nooks and crannies of a pipe. The first step is to prepare your set-up. Lay down a rag or paper towel to work on. Then, disassemble your pipe. To clean your stem, dip the tip of a pipe cleaner into the alcohol.

Insert the cleaner into the bit of your stem, and push it through in one direction. Repeat the process until the cleaner is no longer attracting grime. To clean the shank, take another pipe cleaner and dip it into the alcohol. Insert it into the mortise where the stem resides and rub back and forth, picking up as much grime as possible.

This may require more than one pipe cleaner. Once you are satisfied with the amount of cleaning, it is time to move on to the chamber itself. It is at this point we prefer to switch to a paper towel. Ball up the paper towel so that it will fit in the chamber. Add a small amount of alcohol to the paper towel. Insert the paper towel into the chamber and lightly twist.

This will remove a large amount of dirt and ash. Repeat the process until you are satisfied. It is important to give the pipe time to dry out after cleaning. To be safe, we suggest waiting at least 12 hours until you smoke that pipe again. Sometimes a pipe can go sour from all the moisture of the tobacco.

This takes a while to happen, but it does occasionally occur. The solution to this problem is simpler than you might expect. All you need are a few inexpensive tools.

Insert a pipe cleaner through the stem all the way to the chamber. Be sure the cleaner is not in the chamber, just in the bore protecting the shank. Fill the pipe to the chamber rim with non-iodized salt. It is important to use non-iodized salt.

Salt with iodine can damage your pipe. Once it is full, take drops of Everclear and drop them onto the top of the salt it is crucial to use Everclear in this situation, not other types of alcohol. The salt will instantly begin turning brown. Now it is time to wait. It will take hours for all the alcohol to evaporate which is why it is important to use a high-proof liquid, like Everclear. Once you believe the liquid is gone, you can scrape out the musky salt.

Warning: if you do not get every last grain of salt out, you will most likely get a piece of disgusting salt on your tongue, resulting in one of the worst tastes you could imagine.

You have all the tools you need to love and enjoy this hobby for the rest of your life. Pipe smoking is an art form that no one ever completely masters. There are so many facets to this lifestyle that make it unique. No two smokers have the same experience. The rest of the information in this guide is designed to help you make pipe smoking unique to you.

From creating a tobacco cellar to pairing drinks with your favorite blend, these topics will help you customize your experience.

Your pipe kit should include all the essential things you need to enjoy a great smoke. A few of these are constants, and no one will have any fun without a favorite pipe tobacco and something to light it with.

Beyond the simple requirement of pipe tobacco and fire, there are a host of possibilities. We think that every basic pipe kit should include at least three things in addition to your favorite pipe: a lighter, a sturdy 3-in-1 tool, and a great pipe and tobacco pouch. If you are building a collection of pipes and spend a fair bit of time smoking them, we think the investment in a good-quality lighter is a sound one.

A reliable lighter will run in the same price range as a mid-range pipe. Just like your favorite pipes, the more artisan accents and stylish customization the lighter has, the higher the price will be. A perfect choice for lighters that are both beautiful and functional are Tsubota lighters. These lighters are made specifically for pipe smokers and will work even outside on a breezy day. A basic Czech tool will get you through, and the four dollar price point is hard to beat.

We have these laying all over the office, and the car, and the house. The downside is their durability. You will have to spend that four dollars more than once.

Just like a lighter, a good-quality tool is a small investment that can substantially enhance your enjoyment. Whatever type of pipe tool you choose, look for these signs of quality and durability:. Strong metal construction: Steel or other durable metals will last longer than aluminum or other cheaper materials.

Well-made joints: The most likely place for a 3-in-1 tool to break is at the joints. Look for smooth movement back-and-forth and sturdy construction here. Simple construction: A few adornments might add enjoyment.

Remember, a good tool is meant to be functional; if you want a fun additional element, spring for a handmade pipe tamper. Once you put your pipe kit together, you will need something to hold it all in. Ideally, your kit will be convenient for travel, compact, and maybe even a bit stylish.

At home, you may have a large pipe cabinet or a humble tackle box for storing your tools, pipes, and tobaccos. Pipe and tobacco pouches come in a plethora of colors, shapes, sizes, and designs. There are some leather tobacco pouches that do nothing other than hold tobacco for only a few dollars. Then, there are large multi-item bags that hold numerous pipes and everything in-between.

There are many benefits to aging and storing our tobacco. The main reason cellaring tobacco is a great idea is because tobacco--just like wine and wisdom--improves with age. When stored properly , the flavors and aroma of the blend mature and gain depth. We are living in the golden age of tobacco blends.

This is likely to be the cheapest pipe tobacco will ever be. With government regulations, inflation, and fewer farms, the price of tobacco is only going to go up.

Cellaring tobacco is a clear and wise investment in the future of your favorite new hobby. If you are a committed pipe smoker and plan to continue for years to come, it might not be a bad idea to stock up now.

Think of it like a savings plan for your future happiness. Virginia Tobacco: The natural sugar content and unique chemical structure make Virginia ideal for aging. No matter how long it is aged, its quality will only increase, at least in our lifetime. Orientals: After a few years in the cellar, Oriental tobaccos will move away from the intrinsic spice and begin picking up flavors of fruit.

However, it is safe to say that the peak will be sometime around years in the cellar and will decrease in flavor after that.

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The other way of measuring rigid copper piping has to do with its thickness. There are three grades of thickness to choose from for use in plumbing:. Copper pipes have stood the test of time because of some important advantages they have, including:. With so many strengths, you may wonder why copper is not used for plumbing in every case. Copper is not always chosen because it does have some cons compared to other materials. Disadvantages of copper pipes include:. Galvanized piping used to be the material of choice for residential plumbing, and it is still what many people picture when they think of a plumbing pipe.

The steel pipes are coated in a layer of zinc, which is meant to prevent rusting. The ends of pipes are threaded so they can be screwed in to each other. These pipes are undoubtedly strong, but they are no longer used much at all. Galvanized pipes are still sometimes used to transport non-potable water, but it is too prone to problems to transport potable water safely.

While homes today are very rarely outfitted with galvanized steel pipes, homes whose plumbing was installed in the s or before may still have them. If this is the case in your home, you should consider replacing these pipes right away.

Though galvanized steel pipes are cheaper than copper, are strong and manage to resist rust for a time, these pros are far outweighed by the cons, which include:.

Polyvinyl chloride, more commonly known as PVC, has become a popular choice for plumbing pipes in recent years. This material is a thermoplastic polymer. In other words, it is made out of a combination of plastic and vinyl. PVC pipes are rigid and are usually white, cream or grey in color.

They are used most often for highly pressurized water, such as in a home's main water supply line. PVC pipes work in a variety of applications, including for transporting potable water and for draining.

Depending on the application, you can choose a particular thickness and configuration designed to best support that application. Though both materials are made from the same basic elements, the key difference is that CPVC is chlorinated. As the name suggests, this sizing system mimics the same size graduations used by copper piping. CPVC does not have many clear disadvantages, though it may not always be the best choice.

Cons include:. Plastic pipes in general have become a popular type of pipe used in new homes. This particular plastic material is relatively new on the plumbing scene and can be used for a variety of plumbing applications.

This means they can be used in long, continuous runs. In addition to being flexible, PEX is easy to cut and join together. The PEX system is designed to fit together with the combination of barbed fittings and crimping rings or cinch clamps. This method of joining pipes is in lieu of any soldering or gluing. The installation process is quick and easy, and the material is made to last.

PEX piping can come coiled up in a flexible roll, wrapped in aluminum to keep its shape or in hard lengths. To become the new favorite piping choice among many plumbers and homeowners, this material must come with some major advantages. These include:. PEX does have a few disadvantages, though one of these PEX plumbing disadvantages has largely been debunked. PEX pipe problems include:. Now that we have looked at some of the most common types of plumbing pipes, let's take a quick look at several others that are not quite as common.

We will also briefly discuss another type of pipe that is not intended for plumbing: black iron. Stainless steel piping is actually more expensive than copper piping. A high price point, however, indicates a high level of quality. Stainless steel pipes are strong and corrosion-resistant. Because of their ability to resist corrosion, stainless steel pipes are the preferable choice in areas that are susceptible to it, such as coastal communities.

Stainless steel piping is available in both flexible and rigid versions, and it comes in a variety of sizes. Pipes are fitted together using couplings. Cast iron used to be a common piping material for drainage systems, particularly in the first half of the twentieth century, and it can still be found in many homes today.

Cast iron is extremely strong, durable and heavy. Cast iron also reduces sound and is heat-resistant. Despite the advantages of strength and durability, though, a big disadvantage of cast iron is that it is susceptible to rust over time.

In homes that have cast iron piping, if a pipe rusts all the way through, that section can be replaced with plastic piping, like PVC. Cast iron pipes come in various sizes, with the smallest usually being four inches.

Polybutylene pipes, also referred to simply as PB pipes, were a popular choice for plumbing from the late s to the mids. In fact, as many as 10 million homes built during that timeframe included polybutylene piping of some kind.