When is chain stitch used

Chain Stitch Embroidery has a very unique look to it; very different from current day machine embroidery. Antiquing, thrifting, and finding little gems from the past are some of my favorite activities to do in my free time. I started seeing chain stitch embroidery on Instagram, and fell in love.

Hand embroidery will always be my first love, but I began to feel the need to branch out and try something new. I thought on it for awhile, keeping an eye out online and in vintage shops.

It is usually found on high-stress seams which often incur stretching, such as the center seat seams, yokes, panel seams, inseams, and waistbands. The triple-needle is more often used in workwear. Tension in the stitch pulls the fabric into a slight pucker, allowing a bit of stretching. A favorite in garment manufacturing because it provides a strong durable stitch that can easily be undone if needed. The tension creates a decorative puckering effect which is especially visible on denim seams and hems, as the fabric shows signs of aging, washing and wear.

Hemming is the sewing process of shortening the length or finishing the bottom edge on a pair of jeans or pants. Hemming using a method of double folding into itself the raw fabric edge of the leg openings to make a clean smooth edge.

Chain stitch hemming is when a pair of jeans or pants are hemmed with a chain stitch sewing machine. This results in a feeding inconsistency; the top and bottom layers do not move at the same rate. As they are sewn together, puckers forms. Without a folder, the feeding is alleviated. But with a folder, the top layer fabric cannot move anywhere to flatten out the pucker, since it is wedged between the foot and the folder.

This results in the roped hem. Any Union Special without the folder will not create the roping effect. It should be noted that to a slight degree natural fibre thread will shrink at a different rate than the denim, which can also cause a slight skew, but it is minimal.

The G is hard to find today: most of them have fallen into disrepair and have been cannibalized to keep other machines running. The remaining machines are usually found in Southeast Asia or Northern Africa as that is where most garments are being produced currently. Most of the examples that are available on the free market have been purchased by small scale jean brands and shops that do in-store hemming.

Lockstitch: SPI x thread strength lbs x 1. You may not need high seam strength in a silk scarf, for example. But greater seam strength is usually very important to the functionality of construction work gloves. Variations of these stitch types are further distinguished by digit endings within that group. For example, lock stitches are the class category. Sometimes thread count separates these stiches and, in other cases, style.

No matter the difference, by using these standard industry specifications, it becomes much easier to communicate with factories and designers about your stitching needs. The chain stitch falls into class and is created when two or more sets of threads come together in a chain-like pattern. One or more needle threads penetrate the material being used and form a loop underneath it. Chain stitching is used frequently on decorative parts of clothing or anywhere else that needs an aesthetic touch-up.

When sewn properly, it can leave an ornate, thick and textured line. But the beauty of chain stitches often comes at a cost. Seams joined with chain stitching often unravel easier.

And the amount of extra sewing time for garments where chain stitching is used can add up, making this stitching type more laborious than others. These are important traits to consider when choosing to use chain stitching in garment manufacturing. The multithread chain stitch , or double locked chain stitch, falls into class The resulting stitch looks different on the top and bottom of fabric.

It can be used for elastic in waistbands, jackets, blazers, T-shirts, decorative stitching on belts and more. Some clear disadvantages exist with the multithread chain stitch.

And if a thread is damaged, the stitch can unravel easily, which might threaten the integrity of an entire seam. Many garment manufacturers prevent this by over-sewing or bar-tacking the seam for added reinforcement.

Also known as single needle stitching, the class lockstitch is made when two threads lock together at minor intervals.