Where is the town drenched in fog

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Insects, likewise, seem to be disappearing from these forests, presumably forced into higher, wetter elevations. But by far the most impacted group of animals is the amphibians. The moist, fertile undergrowth of a cloud forest is perfect for their delicate skin, which must be wet for them to breathe.

About half of the amphibians found in the cloud forest are endangered. The Monteverde golden toad Incilius periglenes , a cloud forest animal from Costa Rica, is considered by some to be the first creature to have gone extinct because of climate change.

This raises a fundamental question for scientists. Without its insects, amphibians, and saplings—in other words, its residents and future housing—is a cloud forest still a cloud forest? Toledo says no. But despite the massive challenges, she is immune to doom and gloom. There is hope, she says. But they need the opportunity. And this is where research at the Institute gets interesting. Cloud forests might eventually follow the clouds up the mountainsides.

But how will the forests form? Which trees will go first? And how can we help them? In many ways, Toledo and her colleagues are trying to create a recipe for recreating and maintaining cloud forests. Which is tougher than it sounds. She and Sosa have several research plots that snake up the sides of the mountain, where they have planted hundreds of native trees that are in decline elsewhere to understand which trees will thrive at which elevations.

Scientists have found that with this sort of facilitated restoration—where humans nudge certain species ahead in the right environment—cloud forests can come quickly back. Williams, who is thin and lively, with exuberant, often erratic mannerisms, is a passionate advocate for the return of the cloud forests.

Walking into the experimental forest with her, with stately ash growing alongside a bubbly little stream, it was almost impossible to recognize how it could have been a farm field just a few decades before. Williams and Toledo say that cloud forests have adapted to climate change in the past and they will again in the future.

The trouble, they say, is likely not the warming planet. This is the real crux with climate change, not only in cloud forests, but in ecosystems around the world. Here in Mexico, the primary culprits are coffee plantations, which covet the same chilly high altitude soils as cloud forests.

If the cloud forests migrate uphill, they will quickly come into conflict with potato farmers, who plant their crops in the higher, chillier terrain. So the race is on. Can we preserve enough of the cloud forest and give it enough space to move so that it can adjust to an uncertain future?

Can an ephemeral ecosystem squeezed between coffee and potatoes find a slice of space inside the cloud layer? Research suggests that as much as 84 percent of cloud forest species can live in such coffee plantations. Likewise, biologists have found pockets of cloud forest creatures like pink-headed warblers and even quetzals living in unusual habitats downslope from cloud forests, perhaps waiting for a time when they can return to the chilly boughs of their traditional habitats.

Sosa has tracked similar remnant groups of bats, and a few years ago an amphibian expert at the Institute named Eduardo Pineda made a remarkable discovery. He was working in a forest not far from Xalapa when he flipped over a patch of leaves to expose a small, unremarkable salamander crawling in the cool damp below.

Since then, he has found dozens of them, and several even wander the leaf litter outside his office at the Institute. These forests have survived some of the most profound climatic pivots in the history of our planet.

Yet it may be tough for our grandchildren to find a true cloud forest in 50 years. Before I leave Xalapa, I take one more trip into the cloud forest, searching for that classic moment where the thick layer of fog lifts off the rich green hillside and the world is muffled in a cloudy blanket. Our guide is Angel Morales Gabriel, an enthusiastic lover of all things cloud forest, and his more subdued uncle, Pedro.

They maintain an excellent series of pathways through the forest, complete with benches and shelters for taking a load off. We meet before sunrise, hoping to catch an early morning glimpse of this unique ecosystem in all its foggy glory before the moisture burns off. We start up, heading past farm fields and scattered houses until we reach a series of switchbacks up a steep slope to a prominent ridgeline. Czech dictionaries. Danish dictionaries. Dutch dictionaries.

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